From
the margins of tropical rainforest, my first view of Iguazu Falls was gained
from our hotel lobby. It is the second largest falls on earth.
Even
from that distance it seems so grand that I knew it would enrich my life
forever after.
After
a long wait with hundreds of other tourists, we took a short train ride, which
deposited us at a series of metal bridges that spans several arms of the upper Iguazu
river. It had the feel of being on a Yosemite guided tour. There were so many
tourist, all moving at a snail’s pace, that I began to regret coming here. But
all at once I saw the falls, beautiful in the way its brow leaped free from the
horseshoe-shaped cliffs and tumbled hundreds of feet into the gorge. After
that, the crowd didn’t matter.
So
much mist pushed back up the cliffs that I couldn’t see the river below. The
gauzy, sun-sifted spray, half falling, half floating, seemed infinitely fine,
but the thunder-like detonations of water hitting the granite boulders below blasted
up from the canyon, telling a story of force beyond any power I’ve known.
There
are a series of massive falls, dozens, all blending into a breathtaking
landscape, veiled in numerous rainbows. It is so vast—almost two miles long—I
couldn’t see it all from one place. I had to walk miles of trails and see
portions of it from several vantage points.
One
surprise was how many butterflies are in the surrounding rainforest. I’ve never
seen so many in one place. It was not uncommon to have several landing on me at
once. And the colors jumped out at you, mostly deep blues, electric purples,
and neon yellows. They made the experience magical as well as awesome.
Tomorrow
we take a boat on the lower river, right up to the place they call the Devil’s
Throat, which is as close to the falls as a boat can get. I’m prepared to get
soaked.
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